Friday, August 6, 2010

Day 2 - Dar es Salaam






We woke up early for breakfast at the Pentacostal Center (our first hostel). We were greeted with africaf (african instant coffee), toast, hard boiled eggs, and jam. After morning devotions and a little choir practice, we packed and met our hosts (Jackson and Nselo) and bus driver (Peter) once again. This morning would prove to be an adventurous day!

The stories we had been told of the PC conditions were not to be found - no monster cockroaches. We did find one BIG spider though, and a quick swat with a shoe took care of any potential danger. We slept under misquitto netting and saw no salamanders or millipedes.

First stop on our trip was the central park of Dar where we saw a statue commemorating Tanzania becoming a country in December 1961. At the base were the Swahili words for "Freedom and Unity." A beautiful little park! Next we traveled to the museum of the city. We saw an exhibit of recent findings of the first humans. There were many other exhibits and it was very interesting.

While on our way to see other sites we drove past the US Embassy. As we passed I took a few pictures. Stuck in a traffic jam, we watched an armed Tanzanian military guard walk across the road. He looked like he was walking toward our bus. I made a comment to Lisa that I notice him coming toward us and that was interesting. He then talked for a few moments to our driver. Then he walked around to the door and came on the bus. Looking right at me, he demanded my documents. I was stunned and handed him my passport. He looked at it and then said, 'camera.' Then I was really nervous and very confused. He stood and talked very sternly to me in Swahili and his voice continued to get louder. I was still perplexed as to what was going on. This lasted for a couple of minutes and our hosts were talking with him as well. Jackson motioned to me to get off the bus so the conversation could be continued outside. Another guard came over - not in military garb, but more like a security guard. After having military man continue to yell at me and gesture with my camera and passport, Jackson said that he and I would need to follow the guard in blue to the Embassy. I agreed and off we went.

We entered the security area of the Embassy. At least I felt like I was near safety being in a US building. I was told to stand with Jackson at the counter and wait. A phone call was made to some unknown location. He hung up. The guard brought my camera over to the counter and asked me to show him the photos I had taken that day. I did so immediately. There were three shots of the Embassy area - the sign, an outside guard shack and the American flag. Another phone call was made. This time, and for the first time, it was in English. The guard spoke with someone then turned to me and said, "He wants to talk with you..." Taking the phone I said, "Yes, sir." On the other end was someone who spoke English and identified himself as a US Marine. He asked if I knew why I was being detained, and my answer was a very truthful - "I have no idea." His explanation was that the Tanzanian military was very sensitive about security and I was seen taking pictures of the embassy. I said yes, I had, but didn't know that it wasn't OK to do that. He told me I wasn't the first one this had happened to, and that 'his man' was going to delete the photos. If I would show him how that would be appreciated. I was also told that I could take pictures if I got permission ahead of time, so I could call the next day and make a request. Did I have any other questions? Yes, will I be able to keep my camera? Yes - after the pictures of the embassy were deleted. I walked the guard through how to delete the photos, then had to move the pictures back and forth to show they were all deleted. I was free to go.

Jackson and I were escorted back to the bus by the guard. Once there I had both my camera and passport in my hands. The military guy was still ranting about something. He continued to lecture me after the guard explained that the photos were deleted. Finally, Jackson motioned to me to get on the bus. The door was closed and we pulled away. Everyone was silent.

Lisa put her arm around me and I started to cry. Others got up, or reached over the seats to hug me or squeeze my arm. Someone asked if my police training came into play and my response was, "Yes, shut up and answer the questions asked without further comment!"

The remainder of the day was very pleasant. We went to see a museum called the "Village Museum" where we were treated to a wonderful meal of very local fare. We had chicken, rice, beans, meat in a tomato sauce, ogala, casava, and some type of small smoked fish much like sardines. The food was exceptional! Our tour of the museum was an introduction to they types of housing we would encounter on our journey. Much of it was made from mud bricks, wood, and thatch. We were also treated to a traditional style of dance by some amazing dancers. This museum was established to highlight the 120+ tribes of Tanzania, so that their way of living would not become lost as progress naturally takes over.

Back onto the bus again - this time to find the woodcarver's market and do some shopping! Once there we were given 30 minutes to shop to our heart's content and support the Tanzanian economy. One after another, the sellers beckoned us into their stores. Lisa bought a drum for a co-worker and we then had 10 merchants bringing their drums to us. Someone else bought ebony carvings, and more merchants were attempting to entice us to buy more. After spending enough money we boarded the bus once again and off we went to meet our host families!

Arriving at Wazo Hill Lutheran Church, we were greeted by smiling faces and welcome hugs from host families. Lisa and I were to stay with Mwajanga and his wife Titi. Off we drove with our hosts into their neighborhood of Dar es Salaam. I was taken by the poor quality of the roads once we left the main drag. No wonder people had Land Rovers and other 4-wheel drives! You wouldn't survive without one!

We were treated to conversation and another meal. Our dinner consisted of boiled fish, chicken, veggie stew of some sort, chips (fries to us), rice, and fried bananas. All very good!! After dinner we presented our hostess with gifts we brought along. Finally, a much anticipated shower and off to bed. We had to be at church before 7am for the first service!

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